In the course of the last century, Western ideals of beauty – thinness, light skin, big breasts, big eyes, a small nose and high cheekbones – have seeped into countries and cultures around the world.
But cracks are beginning to appear in these hegemonic standards of beauty.
In my job as a social media scholar, I started noticing significant changes in beauty standards on Chinese social media in recent years.
from China economic success has enabled it to grow into a major player in the global beauty market, and the country’s own beauty industry is starting to redefine the concept of feminine beauty.
From ‘iron women’ to Western idealization
Around the world, the beauty industry has long been a feminist scholar Meeta Jha writesa site of “ongoing struggles for economic development and mobility, modernity, social prestige and power.”
As early as the 1920s, Chinese calendar posters began featuring westernized women as symbols of “Shanghai modernity.”
However, after the Chinese Communist Party came to power in 1949, Mao Zedong rejected Western ideals of beauty as “bourgeois vanity.” His regime aimed to eliminate gender differences by promoting a more masculine-looking female image, such as “iron women” who drove tractors and operated welding machines.
But this started to shift in the 1980s after China’s Open door policy has entered into force.
During this period, themeinv jingji”, or Chinese beauty economy, emerged. It completely undermines the previous communist beauty ideology legitimized beauty consumption through capitalist enterprises.
This shift led to an obsession with imitating Western characteristicssuch as whiter skin, noses with a higher bridge and double eyelidsalso known as “Asian blepharoplasty”, a surgical procedure which causes a crease in the eyelid, resulting in a larger, more symmetrical eye shape.
Split femininity
However, in recent years, a unique beauty culture has emerged in China’s social media. To me, the different iterations represent the tensions and contradictions of different cultural forces.
One look that has become immensely popular is what I call “split femininity.” I use the word “split” because of this look fluctuates between hypersexuality and infantilization.
In split femininity, qualities like purity and innocence coexist with sultry, erotic imagery. There’s even a Chinese term for this apparent contradiction: “chun yu,” or “purity and desire.” Another related term, ‘ke tian ke yan’, metaphorically links beauty to taste, such as sweetness and saltiness.
Together, these terms – and the associated looks – imply a flexible femininity that can switch between dominant and submissive, sexy and cute.
A blogger named ‘MissPiggy’ shows makeup that reflects ‘chun yu’ or ‘purity and desire’. Qingyue sun
Split femininity is often adapted for certain occasions, such as dates. Another popular makeup style under the umbrella of split femininity is called “xian nv luo lei,” which translates to “the fairy cried and the man knelt.” This particular look attempts to capture and celebrate female vulnerability. Many of the promoters say it is the best look for women who are fighting with men.
In essence, split femininity unites a form of passive femininity reminiscent of China’s traditional patriarchal values with the commodification of female sexuality.
Globalized femininity
Another beauty trend, “globalized femininity,” revolves around transnational, cross-cultural beauty themes.
Chinese beauty influencers draw on the looks of international celebrities, historical periods, and popular media coverage to create different forms of femininity that transcend cultural boundaries.
For example, Thai beauty standards often feature bold eyebrows and warm skin tones, while Western beauty standards generally emphasize a sexualized, provocative look with dramatic facial contours. Chinese beauty bloggers will combine these different influences to create new models of femininity.
A Chinese influencer showcases looks inspired by Thai, Western and Korean femininity. Qingyue sun
Korean culture has also influenced many beauty trends that are currently in vogue, with female K-pop idols being a major source of inspiration. Jenny Kim, a member of the K-pop group Blackpink, has become known for her edgy streetwear coupled with a soft and feminine facial expression. Her unique style has led to the rise of the “baby fierce” Look.
Influencers Ruby and YCC post two ‘baby fierce’ looks inspired by K-pop star Jennie Kim. Qingyue sun
The rise of globalized femininity may seem to indicate a shift away from Western-oriented ideals of beauty. But it is important to recognize that many of these global sources of inspiration have already been Westernized or are a product of them Western beauty assimilation.
In China, the trend towards globalized femininity can simply be seen as a reimagination of established westernized beauty standards adapted to a Chinese context.
Nationalistic femininity
Nationalistic femininity, also called “Chinese beauty”, has also become increasingly popular on Chinese social media.
This form of femininity appeals to national pride by integrating Chinese aesthetics and modernity through inspiration from traditional Chinese culture, tropes and imagery. Classic Chinese myths such as “One hundred birds paying homage to the phoenix” and Chinese literature such as the novel “Travel westinspire extravagant looks imbued with symbolism.
An illustration of the fusion of traditional and modern beauty practices is the adoption of Beijing operas make-up techniques, which are characterized by ceramic white skin, red lips and finely arched eyebrows.
Influencer YCC shows off two examples of “Chinese beauty.” Qingyue sun
Nationalistic beauty trends have become a means for China homegrown brands to expand their market share and reverse the negative connotations of “Made in China.”
While Western capitalism and consumerism have driven the global beauty industry for a long time, the evolution of China’s beauty culture has not just a history of assimilation or oppression.
Instead, it is a complex process of compromise, integration and resistance to the dominance of Western ideals of beauty. The rise of nationalistic femininity, the popularity of split femininity, and the trend of globalized femininity are all manifestations of this dynamic nature.
As contemporary Chinese beauty culture encompasses a blending of traditional Chinese culture, modern aesthetics and global influences, it promises to create a unique identity that is quintessentially Chinese.
Qingyue sun is a PhD candidate in communication, culture and media Drexel University.
This article has been republished from The conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.
A new femininity is beginning to emerge in China – Asia
