Global Courant
In northeastern Ghana, pregnant women sit on hot water and shea butter to ease contractions and protect their newborn’s skin. In Gambia, shea butter is applied to the umbilical stumps of babies to prevent infections and reduce mortality. The fatty acids, vitamins, antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents present in natural butter are believed to nourish and protect the skin, a practice that can be traced back to Cleopatra in ancient Egypt. Early stories speak of large caravans carrying clay pots of shea butter for personal use. Today, African women still use shea butter to moisturize their skin and prevent stretch marks during pregnancy.
Over the years, the demand for organic beauty products in Africa has grown rapidly as more and more consumers become aware of the benefits of using natural and organic products for their skin and hair. Nowadays the global one market The value of shea butter is approximately $10 billion, with an expected growth of more than $30 billion by 2030. These products have proven to be an invaluable multi-purpose resource for beauty and a variety of other applications. Moreover, organic products are very sustainable. Black soap, a staple in several parts of Africa, is a sustainable product that does not harm the ecosystem and does not create waste. It is a handmade soap made from West Africa of plantain leaves, cocoa pods, shea butter, palm kernel oil and coconut oil. The ingredients are burned to ash, giving the soap its dark color and rich lather.
Some people add herbs to these natural skin and hair care products, following unique recipes passed down from generation to generation. A common belief is that the more natural a product is, the better it works. Natural skincare specialist and organic brand owner Ayomi said seeing her grandmother set up a successful herbal business in the north of the country had a significant influence on starting an organic skincare brand. “The herbs my grandmother sold were very effective for treating infections and sugar-related diseases, which has an unpopular reputation among Northerners,” Ayomi said. When she started her organic brand in 2015, she stuck to that value, using only plant-based ingredients and sometimes adding herbs to her products, especially hair care products.
Ghanaian women blend shea butter for commercial purposes.
Part of the economic impact of organic products is clear: job creation. In several parts of Africa, women today earn income from selling organic products in local markets or online platforms. In Burkina Faso, locally made shea butter is sometimes used called “ladies gold”. Shea nuts are the exclusive property of women in Burkina Faso. They collect and process them into shea butter. This allows them to earn money and support their families, especially in rural areas where other sources of income are scarce or inaccessible. Many women have formed cooperatives or associations to produce and sell shea butter, both locally and internationally. The United Nations Conference on Trade and Development describes organic farming as “not only a source of safer, healthier products; it is also a profitable source of income for rural communities in Africa. It is an effective tool for achieving the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development.”
Beauty and personal care are a big market in Africa. The continent has the fastest growing population in the world, which is expected to double to 2.4 billion by 2050. This means more potential consumers for the beauty industry, especially in urban areas where people have greater disposable income and are more exposed to digital trends . In Nigeria, retail sales of beauty and personal care products rose to their highest level in at least 15 years, despite the country’s mounting economic headwinds. Mordor Intelligence estimates that the size of the African cosmeceutical market will grow from $3.55 billion in 2023 to $4.95 billion in 2028, with a CAGR of 6.86 percent. These figures include a segment of consumers with more ambition and preference for quality, safety and sustainability in their beauty products.
Organic beauty products go beyond traditional formulas and are often the result of innovative experimentation with different ingredients, textures, scents and colors. Unfortunately, this experiment opens the door to potentially harmful combinations, creating opportunities for unprofessionalism and greed in the market. a report by the World Health Organization shows that substandard and counterfeit makeup products pose a significant threat to public health, especially in low- and middle-income countries.
This trend is attributed to the influence of unrealistic beauty standards from the mainstream industry. Ayomi notes that dark-skinned consumers often want to achieve the skin tones of celebrities like Kim Kardashian or Beyonce. “I have had to turn away customers because my products do not match their vision.” a joint study by the Center for Health and Social Sciences at the Tata Institute of Social Sciences in India and the Center for Appearance Research at the University of the West of England, predicts that the skin-lightening industry will reach a staggering value of $31 billion by 2024.
A recent standout on the indigenous organic products scene is Nigeria’s Jenny’s Glow, known for its skincare and beauty products. The brand claims to address various skin concerns such as blemishes, dark spots, uneven skin tone, wrinkles and dryness. Jenny’s Glow is also known for using influencers and celebrities to endorse its products. Early this month, a social commentator led a weeklong call on organic brands. Jenny’s Glow and the organic men’s care brand Okunrin were the point of contact. It wasn’t the first time Jenny’s glow suffered a setback. Weeks earlier, several mini but consistent calls had taken place on social media. One user claimed that a product burned her skin. Another suffered a severe rash reaction from the brand’s facial cleanser.
Every organic skin care product follows a recipe. Some recipes use essential oils, lemon juice, baking soda and apple cider vinegar. However, these ingredients are at high risk of being adulterated. “Several times I have had to make my own castor oil. Because the one sold in the market is tainted,” Ayomi said. Other organic products contain bleaching ingredients, steroids and high concentrations of hydroquinone that can cause irreversible skin damage such as skin irritation, infection, burns and cancer. In April, a video of an organic cream seller mixing packaged yogurt and some unrecognizable ingredients went viral on TikTok, raising concerns about the manufacturing process of organic skin and hair care products.
Some people have developed a fear of organic skin care products, while others have little/no knowledge of their intended value. “Except for the long-time loyal customers, only a few people currently appreciate 100% organic skin care products,” says Ayomi. “I don’t blame consumers,” says Oluwakemi Onipede, an organic skin care therapist. “Many skin care product suppliers have forgone the natural organic name in their search for fast-acting products and whitening products. That’s why I made sure I got certified. So people don’t think that I woke up one morning to mix things without proper knowledge,” she added.
Skin care specialists who focus on skin repair ultimately make money. Affected consumers are desperate for solutions to restore the health and appearance of their skin and are therefore willing to pay a premium for products that claim to do this. Market research by Euromonitor shows that skin care products that provide repair and protection benefits, such as anti-aging, anti-pollution and sun protection, are expected to perform well in the future.
Organic skin care products are more than just beauty products. They are a reflection of the rich and diverse beauty culture of Africa and its people. They are also a source of economic opportunity, social empowerment and environmental sustainability. However, the infiltration and lack of transparent regulation could have a lasting effect on the evolution of organic products in Africa.
