Global Courant
KARACHI – Rival Pakistani briyani restaurants, eyeing each other in a stream of traffic, compete for customers and serve a fiery medley of meat, rice and spices that unites and divides South Asian appetites.
Both sell a niche version of the dish, steeped in the same barrels, with prizes to match and trophies praising its quality.
But in Karachi, where the briyani craze took off after the creation of Pakistan, it is the subtle differences that inspire devotion.
“Our briyani is not only different from theirs, but also unique in the world,” says restaurateur Muhammad Saqib, who coats his “bone marrow briyani” with spices.
“When someone bites into it, they drown in a world of flavors,” says the 36-year-old.
On the other side, Mr. Muhammad Zain sees it differently.
“We were the ones who first started the briyani business here,” claims the 27-year-old, as the staff scoops out the plates with a generous helping of masala.
“It is our own personal and secret recipe.”
Both agree on one thing.
“You can’t find briyani like Pakistan’s anywhere in the world,” says Mr Saqib.
“Whether it is a party or any other occasion, briyani always comes first,” said Mr Zain.
